Just north of Kaikoura, along the highway was a major fur seal colony. We pulled over and followed the trail to the look out. Below, on a craggy stretch of sea coast, was a large colony of seals.
The seals sun themselves all day in order to store the sun's warmth. This allows them to search for food during the night and not get cold.
There were over 100 seals. A large number were seal pups. In the center of the colony there was a natural swimming pool formed by a circle of rocks. This pool served as a nursery for the seal pups who frolicked in it like a bunch of kids in a sand box.
Basking Shark
The next day we followed a dirt road to a lonely stretch of beach to take a break from driving. The beach was almost, but not totally, deserted. There were a couple of women sitting on the sand enjoying the surf. Further along there was a older couple sitting in lounge chairs fishing. They had their poles stuck into the sand in front of them. We have seen a lot of people fishing off the shore this way and had yet to see anyone catch anything. When the pole came alive and the old fellow jumped to pick it up everyone on the beach got excited. You could tell by the pole action that the fish was fairly large. When the man reeled in his catch we saw that it was a small shark. He wrestled with it for awhile and finally subdued it. Right away he took the hook out and proceeded to try to throw the shark back into the water. He grabbed it by the tail and heaved it as far as he could. The surf immediately pushed it back in to shore. It took him 4 or 5 tries to finally get the shark out far enough to allow it to swim away. After all this drama all he said was, "Basking shark. Not good eating."
Napier
The earthquake that stuck Napier in February, 1931 was the largest ever recorded in NZ history. The coastline was wrenched upward several feet. Almost all the town's brick buildings collapsed; many people lost their lives. The earthquake triggered fires that comsumed most of the remaining wooden structures.
Napier was rebuilt in the art deco style. A style that had swept the global scene in 1925. Walking throuth the downtown district it is like stepping back into the 30's
Orakei Korako
The Lonely Planet states that Orakei Korako as "possibly the best thermal area left in New Zealand and one of the finest in the world".
Orakei Korako is reached by a short ferry trip over Lake Ohakuri. As you approach the shore you see water trickling over the Emerald Terraces into the lake. Exploring the site takes a little over 1 hour. You walk on boardwalks past hot springs, gushing geysers, and bubbling mud pools. The walk ends at a rare geothermal cave (there is only one other in the world - in southern Italy.)
Karangahake
To take the walk through the gorge you get to experience what it must have been like to work underground in Mt Karangahake 100 years ago.
There are many different paths. You explore old mining tunnels, ore roasting kilns and tramways on the Windows Walk. If you have a torch follow the Karangahake walkway along the path of the old railway through a kilometre long brick-lined tunnel. You will sway across the swing-bridges, push through the bush to explore relics from the goldmining past.
I was surprised at just how dark the tunnels were and there was no light other than your flash light. I really don't think you would find a promoted walk like it in North America. I can just imagine the law suits that would ensue for so much as a stubbed toe.
Reflections on Traveling in New Zealand
It is Friday, February 11th and I am working on this blog as Don negotiates the serpentine roads. No where in NZ will you find a straight road of more that a few kilometres. 90% of the roads are up, down and around.
Today we return to Auckland and tomorrow we return our camper van. I am going to be honest and say, "not a moment too soon". All the guide books say that the best way to see NZ is by camper van. They lie. I guess if you want to spend a small fortune and get a large camper it might be the way to go. However, you have to factor in the price of gas - $2.00 to $2.22/litre. And, if you want to take the unit between islands that will cost $500. plus. All things considered, I don't endorse what the guide books say - camper vanning is not the best way to see NZ.
Below are two recommendations for traveling in NZ. Both ways are cheaper and more comfortable than hiring a camper van.
a. A small car and motels. We traveled this way in Tasmania for a week, and in northern NZ. All the rooms are equipped so that you can eat out of a cooler. Some even have a full kitchen. The average cost for the accomodation was $110.00/night.
b. Hire a slightly larger car. One that will allow you to carry 2 sleeping bags and a small fleece blanket for the cooler weather you will encounter in the south. Pick up a copy of the Jasons - Holiday Parks Campgrounds. Stay in holiday parks which have barebones cabins for as little as $40.00/night. All these parks have a well stocked kitchen, a TV lounge, computers, showers, etc.
Anyway that is what we would do if given the opportunity to do it again.
Other
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| Stuka Dive Bomber |
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| Hurricane |
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| Stuka |
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| Bristol Freighter |
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| Steerman |
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